Monday, January 22, 2018

I'm Not Sick of Tbilisi, But...Time for Changes

Regardless of what Kaladze says, this isn't the city full of life...this is the city of solemn faced women in fur coats on buses.

I'm not sick of Tbilisi, but I'm a little sick of living the way I thought I was supposed to live in Tbilisi.

I'm sick of only dressing nicely when I leave the house and always having my shoes clean. I'm sick of not smiling at strangers. I'm sick of not running someplace just because I'm full of energy (okay, this desire strikes me maybe twice a year...but still!). I'm sick of seas of black coats only punctuated by the most repetitive and uninspired of trends (Pom Pom hats, fanny packs, platform sneakers).

mid-Jan bus


I know it's the middle of winter, the end of the holiday season, and most people were drunk and/or asleep for two of the past three weeks, so maybe this plays a role. Regardless, I'm feeling crushed by limits and standards I have set for myself, based on what I think people in Tbilisi expect from me. It really is what people expect, but I'm tired of working to seem "normal." My normal is not Tbilisi normal - and I've decided it's time to embrace that.

The past three days the weather has been really lovely! 11 degrees C (52 F), sunny, no wind. I even caught a rare glimpse of the beautiful, snowy Mount Kazbek (or so we all assume) across the city, between the low, close mountains, from my window. The view from my 14th floor terrace left me with a deep sadness that I will soon be leaving this apartment. I have decided to move - for multiple reasons. Partly because I just need a change, to shake things up, partly because this apartment has one huge plus (the huge terrace and beautiful view, although the terrace isn't much use in the winter), and several minuses (its shoddy construction means it's always freezing here, it's expensive, and the 2 bedrooms is way more than I need seeing as no one visits me...). Also, excitingly, Bacho and I have decided to move in together! We are moving to an adorable, cozy apartment just a few blocks away. It doesn't have a view but it has mercifully white washed walls, natural wood floors, and a newly renovated kitchen and bathroom.

Below, for your pleasure and entertainment, I have included a selection of photos demonstrating the types of decor commonly found in Tbilisi apartments, making it clear why the white washed walls and new renovation is not only rare, but really something to get excited about!


Great kitchen
Color Coordination




Super Hip





Old School




Bold wallpaper choice

3 comments:

  1. I just listened to your episode of amateur traveller and loved all 54 minutes of it! Your affection for Georgia was delightful whilst also commonly shared amongst all visitors of Georgia, including myself. I have to say that having gone straight from that podcast to this blog I am really disappointed to be met with such negativity, as well as a direct contradiction of what you said in the podcast about Georgia not being all 'women in black' doom and gloom. I hope this was just seasonal blues and you are feeling back in love with Georgia!

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  2. Hi, got your website from your interview in a travel podcast. Georgia was always on my list of traveling but I am surprised to learn it is highly socio-conservative (alas!). Nevertheless, it's safe and I would like to explore it. I wanted to know how are cave-cities?

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    1. Hi there! Georgia is an amazing place to travel or live - there is a lot of social conservatism overall, but there is also a strong subculture of young, funky liberals. It's not too hard to avoid the close-minded people, especially if you are just here for a visit - in general, people's respect for guests outweighs their conservative mentality. It's very safe and definitely worth exploring. There are two major cave cities - Uplitsikhe (near Tbilisi, small, an easy day trip combined with Gori) and Vardzia (about 3 hr from Tbilisi, large, incredible - you'll never forget seeing the 12th-century cathedral built into the cliffs). I recommend shelling out for a guide at both places, but especially Uplitsikhe, because without an expert telling you what all the different holes and niches and crevasses were used for, it can sort of just look like a bunch of rock...haha - hope you visit Georgia soon and have an amazing time!!

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